"Supa?" That's Samburu for "how are you?" You reply "oh yeay"... "I'm fine". Am back in Lamu now after an adventurous, stimulating, humbling and transformative trip up to Samburu land. Adventurous because we had our first breakdown in four years of renting vehicles of dubious provenance. We were approx. 20 kms. north of Archer's Post (or Archer's Roast as we call it due to it's hellish climate) when we noticed steam coming from the hood (bonnet). We surmised that it was a problem with the radiator, a steady leak. It was around 1 p.m. the hottest time of the day, and we though we were on the main route to Ethiopia (road implies tarmac, passable etc.) there is little traffic.
We remained calm but not calm enough to take a photo of the absolutely stunning moran (warrior) that emerged from the bush. He was a recent iniate and was in the stage that the Samburu call "the time of the birds". He has to wear black bark cloth, brass earrings and shave his head. Around the back of his head was a sling of birds that he had shot with his bow and arrow. Their feathers were brilliant hues and added to his beauty. He did not speak English or Swahili so he just stood and watched us as we analyzed what to do. He was completely unfazed when a plume of steam erupted from the radiator sending Kris and I leaping back. Eventually he got bored with us and ambled away.
We managed to drive the car back to Isiolo stopping every 10 kms to fill the radiator whose leak was now getting more severe.
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| Jane's brand new Land Cruiser |
Our misfortune turned into great fortune as Jane Newman, or St. Jane as I call her now, upon hearing from us arranged for us to stay at the exclusive Lewa Conservancy (a favourite of Prince William) just outside Isiolo. She insisted that we take here brand new Toyota Land Cruiser for the rest of our trip. We scratched going up to Loyongalani... she wasn't that nuts to let us take it up there! So there we were with the object of our past longings: a classic Land Cruiser, green, canvas cover, winch, ventilator, two gas tanks and clearance! Clearance that I would lust after when we were in our Suzuki Samurai. It was brutal in it's macho-ness and we were terrified of it for the first 50 kms. Now we can settle for nothing less.
We camped one night in Sereolipi and headed to Ol Donyo Wasin, our base camp. We set up the mosquito net tents so that as we lay falling asleep we could watch the stars slide across the sky. We were looked after by Headmaster George and 7 moran who were making the transition to young elders. They were still dressed in their jewelry etc. but they had shaved off their long ochered dreadlocks.
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| Side Mirror: Lesiit's bracelets |
Though they were moving into a more sedate stage of life (marriage, families, responsibilities) they were all still very glamorous and macho. Our favourite was Lesiit, though not the best looking he was the bravest. He had on tons of jewelry including 8 brass bracelets, one for each of the six men he had killed and two for the lions he'd dispatched. Headmaster said "he's not a murderer, he was defending the village and it's cows against Somalis with guns. is reputation is so great that young girls all over Samburu Land sing songs praising his feats" Talk about Beowulf!!
We noticed immediately that there have been many positive changes in the village and that the money that was raised this past year has been put to good use. Most important was the ore hole. Though not the most photogenic improvement it is one of the most vital. They have surrounded it with fencing and prickly brush to safeguard the solar panels from elephants. They expect to start pumping in the next couple of months.
We also saw the camels. They are very beautiful and very lady-like. They are no longer virgins and the village is waiting to see which ones are pregnant as that is when the milk will flow.
The camel milk is an important part of the improved nutrition for the school children as it is more nutritious than cow's milk and camels endure droughts much better than cows.
The cows that survived the drought last year were also fat and healthy.
There were some light rains in January so the land was greener than last year. How could it not be?! Last year it looked like someone had put a match to it. But there has been a great loss of livestock. One man we met had 200 cows and now he only has 6. Everyone looked long and lean but no one was starving. We happened to be there when the USAID food aid arrived. Sacks of corn meal and cans of cooking oil. Everything was distributed democratically and in a very orderly way, the complete opposite of the usual melees portrayed by the media. It was handled entirely by Samburu elders. I noticed that every sack and every can bore the following text "Not for sale or barter. A gift from the American people." I liked that "the People" not the "the government".
After the distribution in Ol Donyo Wasin we set off for more remote manyattas with their allotment of food aid. Most of the very small children in these manyattas have never seen a white person so there were a lot of tears at the sight of our skin, blue eyes and blonde hair.
We only saw Chief George at the end of our trip as he had been in Maralal to see the DC (District Commissioner). He presented us with bracelets. Mine said Linda and Kris's said "Christ". I am still giggling as I write this.
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| Makubwa House, Lamu |
Now I am lazing in Lamu. Makubwa House is beautiful and airy and Bo is the perfect host.
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| Magic Hour from Makubwa's roof |
I'm still floored by the magic hour here: I'm on the roof veranda as the sea turns saphire, the sky rosy pink, swallows swoop, dhows glide by as muezzin call people to evening prayer and Mr. Ali's cooking wafts up mixing with the oud (incense) that he is burning my bedroom. Catching up on local gossip and intrigues. Sailing on Angalia.
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| Ali... getting supper ready |
I trail behind Mr. Ali as he makes his social rounds (he has disguised it as "shopping") and try to figure out what he is actually saying to me. Every morning he awakens me with a huge thermos of chai and the proclamation "today somebody die".
So I am having internet problems here (what's new) and don't know when I will be able to write again (hence the long message). I wish you all "lala salama" as you are all in slumberland as I write this except perhaps Mr. Barratt who is in Bangkok (I hope your show at F Stop is successful and say "sawadee kaaaaaaaah" to the B'kok Krew)
love,
Linda
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